PHILIPPE JOUAN

As one heads down the Grand Rue from the Truchots, off a little side street that leads past La Bussière and 1er cru Les Ruchots, one finds the cellars and courtyard of Henri Jouan and his son Philippe. Henri is a contemporary and friend of Jacky Truchot. The two developed their wine-making skills concurrently, and although they share many sensibilities, the wines of the Jouans, pere et fils, are bit more rustic than Jacky's. Philippe has maintained much of the approach taken by Henri, “traditionelle” is a word that comes to mind when tasting these superb wines from the Jouans

It is a tiny domaine with some great terroirs, and a solid quantity of old vines. Even the Passetoutgrain, which is virtually all Pinot Noir, is from very old vines. The Côteaux Bourgignonne is the youngest at 40 years. The Morey comes from three lieux dits, Crais Gillon, Corvées, and Le Village. The Chambolle vines are in Derriére la Four (70 years), Les Herbués, and Les Chardannes. A real "secret" is his Gevrey-Chambertin "Aux Echézeaux", a single parcel of 80 year vines adjoining Charmes-Chambertin. They regard their Clos Sorbés, much as Rousseau regards his Clos St. Jacques-virtually on a par with Grand Cru; the vines are 80 years old; tiny production. Their Clos St. Denis vines are in the "Maison Brulée" section, next to Clos des Lambrays. Many of their vines here are over a hundred years old, and make a truly Grand Cru.